On a recent trip to Los Angeles, I was fortunate to garner an invitation to meet for drinks at Hush in Laguna Beach. Located on the main drag in downtown Laguna Beach, Hush offers a contemporary, upscale experience whether you’re in the elegant blue neon accented bar or the quietly sophisticated dining room. It’s a nice contrast to the rest of Laguna’s beachy casual establishments. Having checked out the website prior to arrival, I was intrigued by their extensive wine list and the variety of imported proteins.

In L.A.’s Friday night traffic, it took me over three hours to get from Santa Monica to Laguna Beach. So of course I was late, starving and nervy from driving illegally in the carpool lane. (If not for the HOV lane, I shudder to think how long it would have taken me.) By the time I reached the restaurant, all I wanted was a magnum of wine, a straw and a dark corner.

Although I had anticipated enjoying only a cocktail and appetizer, I was delighted to sit down for a real dinner.

Still shaky from the drive and unable to focus my eyes to read the menu, I gave up and asked the waiter to recommend his favorites. Sea bass? Great. Bring me one of those and another magnum of pinot noir, please.

Luckily, my companion for dinner was a bit more quick-witted. He started us out with one of Hush’s signature appetizers: Maine lobster-crayfish macaroni and cheese. Yup. You got it. Comfort food with style. Grated black truffles and white truffle oil added a little earthiness to the seafood flavors of this dish. While delicious, it might have been a little too earthy for my tastes. Truffles are tricky. The flavor balance needs to be perfect.

Next came the sea bass. Pan-seared and accompanied by Brussels sprouts and barley risotto, the dish was solid. The brandy reduction was a beautiful accent to both the lightness of the fish and the bitterness of the Brussels sprouts.

Finally it was time to choose dessert. (When I order my entrée, I always inquire about the desserts. It gives me something to look forward to.) Our waiter had cooed over the banana strudel made with phyllo dough. Can you call it strudel if it’s made with phyllo? I dunno. I was skeptical. In the end, I was urged to face my fears and order the strudel. Holy crapola! Am I glad that I did! The first bite was ambrosia. Warm banana wrapped in dough softened by crème caramel. The potential disaster with the combination of banana and caramel is that it can easily become overpoweringly sweet. This was not at all the case. It was nice and subtle, soft in its flavors and textures. If you really want that extra punch of sweet to come forward, enjoy the strudel with the Inniskillin Ice Wine, the suggested pairing. For a lighter taste, a blanc de blanc sparkling might be nice. Or more to my own taste, a deeper zinfandel port, which might bring out some depth in the flavors. No matter the pairing, the dessert was a heavenly way to end the meal.

Would I go back? Absolutely! It’s the ideal restaurant to single-course dine because the selections within each course are varied enough to be interesting. Go for appetizers only or just dessert and pair your culinary delights with something off the more than extensive wine list. It’ll feel decadent any way you play it.

And if you’re stumped on what to get because the options look too good? Just ask your waiter for his favorites and you won’t go wrong. I know I didn’t.—M. Branton

Posted on Wednesday, February 6, 2008 in Permalink