Chef Talk: Michael R. Poley

Brewing from the heart

One would not usually think of a brewmaster as a chef, but when you get to the heart of it beer is food. For Michael Poley, senior resident brewmaster at Anheuser-Busch in Fairfield, his ingredients happen to be hops, rice and other grains instead of fish, meat and produce. And his kitchen is an ultra-modern 700,000-square-foot brewery that produces 4.4 million barrels of beer a year.

You originally studied viticulture; why did you make the switch from wine to beer?

In my last year in the viticulture program at UC Davis I discovered brewing and took it as an elective because the fermentation process of wine and beer are similar. I fell in love with beer—it is more complicated than wine. Beer is brewing all year long and fermenting everyday, whereas wine is only made once a year and 90% of the quality of wine comes from where the grapes are planted. Brewing is just more exciting.

What was your first job in the brewing industry after college?

I worked at a malting company in Los Angeles as the plant manager. I was learning how to turn raw barley into malt, which is the heart of making beer.

How does the history of brewing affect what you do on a daily basis?

I am fascinated with history; it is neat to be in an industry that has been around for 8,000 years. The flavor profile has changed but not much has changed in the way beer is made.

You have traveled the world working with beer; how does the social view of beer differ from country to country?

In England and Ireland the pub is all about beer and ale and is the place to socialize. In Ireland it is fashionable to say you closed the pub down; when the economy was low the pubs were still packed—people would just show up later so they could still say that they closed the pub down. In the U.S., Canada and France there is a lot of competition with the wine industry for farmers because there is more money in grape crops. In Italy wine is cheap to purchase.

Where do you see the beer industry in 15 years?

More unique packaging and a wider variety in styles of beer. I would like to see beer lifted to a more elegant level in the higher-end restaurants.

With bias aside, what is your favorite micro-brew?

I like most beer and I always try other breweries, but I have been drinking Anchor Steam forever.

Which three people would you want to have a drink with in a pub?

I’d like to hang out with my friends who are chefs. We have a lot of the same vocabulary—their’s is about food and mine is about beer. Every time we get together we end up doing beer and food pairings.

What is your idea of luxury?

Being on a 60-foot yacht on the way to the Caribbean and the only goal is getting to Trinidad before a hurricane.

When are you happiest?

When the beer is right. 

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