Julia's Kitchen

A truly original dining destination

After an admittedly shaky start five years ago, Julia’s Kitchen at COPIA in Napa has now blossomed into a full-fledged culinary destination under the command of Executive Chef Jeff Mosher and a first-rate management team. Over the years the look of the dining room has softened, the menu has become even more focused and now the back of the house and the front of the house have blended almost seamlessly. Service is professional, informed and has a pleasant balance of friendliness and pride in their establishment. The kitchen, meanwhile, continues to make full use of the prolific bounty that comes from COPIA’s acres of beautifully planted and maintained gardens.
    The kitchen has also honed its execution of both new and innovative dishes as well as standards and favorites. Take, for instance, the innovative tempura watermelon salad ($11). I admit to being skeptical, but when the dish arrived on a warm summer day it was a surprising blend of cool (the rectangle of watermelon), warm and crunchy (the even-handedly applied tempura batter) and light (the arugula and baby spinach). A balsamic vinegar reduction dressed it appropriately.
    Other starters to be recommended include the sautéed dayboat scallops ($15) that were close to perfection on one day, ever so slightly salty on a return visit. Yet both times they were delightful, with their spring onion puree, fava beans, pea shoots, garlic and a nice verjus beurre blanc. The crispy veal sweetbreads ($15) were a new take on an old favorite: small bits of sweetbread lightly fried with porcini mushrooms. Other thoughtful beginnings could include a Sonoma foie gras ($19) served on a small slice of brioche with grilled mango. There is also a selection of oysters, served either on the half shell or in special preparations.
    Wines, chosen by COPIA’s own Master of Wine, Peter Marks, have been selected to pair with virtually every dish, and with every budget, from a glass of Italian prosecco or Monterey chardonnay (each $8) to a bottle of ZD Winery’s Abacus ($550). Rest assured there is a great selection in-between. Even the current house wine ($5) is, if not remarkable, certainly more than acceptable for the price.
    Some entrees ripe for wine pairing include the meltingly tender pan seared natural beef tenderloin ($35) with rich marrow, potato puree and a foie gras torchon. Both the Napa milk fed lamb ($35)—a rack, loin and braised lamb—is an excellent foil for a glass of Pinot Noir, as is the Berkshire Pork Chop ($30) with pork belly, porcini polenta and morel ragout. However, if the pan roasted Alaskan halibut ($27) is on the ever-changing menu, placing it at the top of the list is a smart move. Tender, full-flavored and accompanied by a fresh-off-the-cob corn ragout with mushrooms, it makes the most hardened seafood critic melt as fast as does the fish when it reaches your mouth.
    There are also six course chef’s tasting menus which can be paired with wine, a Sunday Brunch (which I admit to not having tried but the menu looks fascinating and very far from the standard brunch fare), and the popular and extremely reasonable Dinner and A Movie for locals.
    Desserts (all $8), under the hand of pastry chef Debbie Yee-Henen, are equally wide-ranging. As much as I admire the trio of sorbets (lemongrass-yogurt, strawberry and blackberry on my last visit) on a hot day, and as much as the “Rocky Road” Redux (sort of a deconstructed rocky road sundae with a malted milk shot) is rich and intriguing, I have to say one of the best single desserts of recent years has to be the fromage blanc mousse. About the size of half a softball, made with blackberry juice, a hazelnut dacquoise and blackberries fresh from the garden, it is worth a trip in itself.
    Now that service and cuisine are so much in synch, Julia’s Kitchen has, at last, become the destination that it has for so long strived to be. It has been a difficult journey at times, but the final result proves that it has been worth it.

Julia’s Kitchen, 500 First Street, Napa (707) 265-5700; juliaskitchen.org.

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