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Tomo Hiteo

Tradition and modernism rolled into success

Chef Tomo finds his greatest satisfaction in constantly developing new and different sushi recipes to add to his recipe collection, already 13,000 strong.
Photo: Jeannie Howard

Sushi chef Tomo Hiteo can be found behind the sushi bar at Rock N Roll Sushi in Vacaville, reserved and focused on creating dishes that range from colorful rolls to simple sashimi. But food is Hiteo’s second career; he left a banking job at the age of 30 to pursue his life-long passion for food. In 1992 he began his training in Osaka, Japan. Shortly after finishing his training, Hiteo and his wife moved to America. Since relocating to the U.S., Hiteo has been exposed to a larger variety of cuisines and cooking styles than in Japan, allowing him to do what he loves—develop new dishes that blend his traditional sushi background with flavors from other cultures.

How does sushi differ in the U.S. from Japan?
Sushi in Japan is not popular. It is expensive and only eaten on special days. In traditional Japan sushi is mostly sashimi and is very simple. Most people in Japan do not like the American-style roll that has sauce or is deep-fried. Many American sushi chefs have a weak skill foundation and they make sushi like fast food.

What do you cook at home?
My wife normally cooks because I’m at work all day. She’ll usually make Japanese food, very simple food like miso soup. But on special days, like Thanksgiving, or when we go to church, I will cook. My kids say my cooking is better.

Is there anything that you don’t like to cook?
No. I like cooking. It is like an adventure. I like cooking things I’ve never made before. Like lamb, there is no lamb in Japan.

What does sushi chef training entail?
Sushi chef training is so hard. In Japan there is a lot of different rice. The first year is training on rice: how to cook rice, wash rice and prepare rice. Second year is dishwasher, because you learn the dishes and how to use them. Third and fourth year is about knife skills in the kitchen, learning to cut meat and vegetables correctly. The fifth year we have a choice: kitchen chef or sushi chef. I learned both. But after school I was still starved for food knowledge; I looked for Japanese, Italian and French cookbooks. Most chefs graduate and stop learning, but to me food has no end.

Where do you find your inspiration for new dishes?
I watch how other countries prepare their foods and I think how I can make it with different fish for sushi. When I think of new things to make, I make it for my friends and family first. If they like it, I make a sampling for the customer. I have over 13,000 of my own recipes.

Have you worked with blowfish?
Oh yes, I have a license, but we can’t serve it raw here because it is illegal, because the blood is very strong. One drop of blood, seven people dead. It is very strong. But there is a series of cuts to keep [it] safe. The taste is very clear, very similar to halibut, and it sort of numbs the tongue.

When are you happiest?
At the sushi bar when the customer doesn’t need the menu, when they want a chef’s creation. I also like when they teach me something new about the flavors they like.

What do you do for fun?
Well, I don’t have time right now, but when I do have time I like to make airplane models. But even at home or church I am thinking about food. I am kind of a workaholic.

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