Aioli Bodega Espanola

    Out in Davis near the downtown train tracks lies a cute, Spanish-style restaurant known as Aioli, or technically AIOLI BODEGA ESPANOLA. The sister restaurant to the well-received Sacramento joint, Aioli brings another layer to the university town's vibrant array of international dining choices. The menus are virtually the same, though daily specials vary between restaurants.
    For the interior restaurateur Reda Bellarbi came up with a fine mix of earthy beiges, oranges and reds, and the dark purple ceiling helps to form an intimate, cocoon-like interior. This spot is comfortable from the first step inside the door.
    As with many Spanish restaurants specializing in tapas (small plates), diners often don't eat in a linear fashion. There are, of course, large plate entrees available, but the Spanish tapas experience is the way to go at Aioli.
    Best bet is to sample many dishes from Aioli's numerous tapas choices and share. In fact, this is a restaurant to visit with a gaggle of friends. One cautionary note: the eminently fun practice of ordering many dishes can get surprisingly expensive, since it's easy to consume many little plates of food. The prices at Aioli aren't excessive, but hungry diners should at least be made aware.
    In any case, I sampled a number of dishes at Aioli and most hit the mark. The tapas selection is divided into Tapas calientes (hot) and Tapas frias (cold).
    The Pollo "el moro" (grilled chicken, $11.50) is a very European-styled piece of chicken leg/thigh with a tasty paprika sauce. Bread is a perfect sop for this sauce. Another winner is the Gambas al ajillo (shrimp in a garlic sauce, $7.95), the shrimp not overly done, the garlic sauce warm and balanced. The Merquez a la flamenca (grilled lamb sausage, $7.95) is another fine dish, the lamb seared on the outside, tender, juicy and inviting within. The Patatas bravas (roasted potatoes with spicy tomato sauce, $4.95) and the Albondigas todo ajo (meat balls in a garlic, paprika sauce with garbanzo beans, $6.95) are local favorites.
    On the Tapas frias side, the restaurant earned points with the Salpicon de pulpo, (octopus with potatoes and roasted bell peppers, $7.95) leading the way. I have grown to love octopus, and these succulent little darlings, whose sides added color and texture, made me very happy. The Setas con comino (mushrooms marinated with cumin, garlic, sherry vinegar and olive oil, $6.95) were smooth, spicy and simply delicious! Olives are big here, and it seemed that every table was sampling the Aceitunas variadas (Mediterranean cured olives, $2.75).
    Besides tapas, Aioli boasts a few specials and entrees of note, including a bisteca costena, (grilled rib eye steak in a glazed sauce with anchovies, $16.95), lamb chops, lamb shank and a duck dish. Many of these can also be turned into tapas plates upon request. The number one choice on the menu (highly recommended) seemed to be the signature Paella valenciana, (saffron rice with shrimp, seafood, chicken and pork spareribs, $31.95) which serves two. Diners need to order the valenciana at least thirty minutes prior to serving, so order as soon as seated. Unfortunately, this paella (one of my favorite dishes) failed to inspire. The vegetarian paella, by contrast was much better, and exuded a freshness and passion the valenciana dish lacked.
    The wine list not surprisingly lends itself to Spanish and Chilean varieties, with a couple of Kiwi and Argentine bottles thrown in. A few wines are offered by the glass. I enjoyed a typical Spanish Tempranillo, the Abadia Reserva from Ribera Del Duero. The elegant copper bar might even become a new hangout for Davis students and faculty.
    Desserts include traditional flan ($4.95) as well as Chocolate con accento frances (chocolate mousse and berries, $4.95), but the real winner and Aioli closer comes from a 200-year old family recipe for Pastel de almendras (almond cake with honey and orange flower water, $5). The honey and orange cookies are very different, and left me totally intrigued.
    The professional service covers the bases, but remains fun and convivial. You might expect your waiter to pull up a chair and share a glass of vino tinto. This is a fine addition to the Davis dining mix, and I'm certain Aioli will continue to experiment, offering repeat customers new dishes, cuisines, sauces and wines.

Aioli Bodega Espanola, 808 Second St., Davis (530) 757-2766.

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