Martini House

Michelin stars and mushrooms, oh my!

Mention St. Helena’s Michelin-starred Martini House to gastronomes-in-the-know, and very likely the first thing out of their mouths will be: “mushrooms!” Indeed, Canadian-born chef/owner Todd Humphries is famous for the dishes he makes from the many varieties of this delicacy, from a mushroom fricassee and black trumpet mushrooms with red-wine glaze to his warm salad of chanterelles and far beyond.
    Not only is Humphries famous for his mushroom creations, he is also one of Northern California’s most ardent foragers, mushrooms being one of his favorite ingredients. At various times during the year he even does a special Mushroom Tasting Menu that is not to be missed. But, not surprisingly, a meal at Martini House is about much more.
    The Pat Kuleto-designed restaurant has been described as “Frank Lloyd Wright meets the Old West,” and that is not far from the truth with its handsome, at times eclectic, at all times stunning, two-level (plus garden) décor. Everything—from the custom-designed sconces to the antiques, artwork and tableware on one level or another—stylishly complements the cuisine. Just as the building is architecturally classified as Craftsman style, what comes out of the open kitchen is as equally well- and pleasingly crafted.
    While a list of the menu’s standouts could go on and on, over the years I have developed my own list of favorites that seems to follow no particular order. I know, for instance, that such entrées as the Colorado lamb chop (currently served with a braised lamb roulade and garlic spinach), venison (at last glance it was prepared with a house-made sausage, polenta cake, sautéed endive and roasted quince in a green peppercorn sauce) and anything made with halibut, Maine sea scallops or Liberty Farms duck breast will be among my very first considerations.
    While the appetizers are certainly worth considering, if I were planning strategically (with a budget in mind), I might skip the starters, and instead—if there were two at the table—split the perfectly designed cheese course and a dessert, and spend a few more dollars on a bottle from the extensive and fairly priced wine list.
    On a casual, appetizer kind of day, I’d head to the intimate Cellar for some crab spring rolls, country-style duck terrine, house-cured charcuterie plate or even the Snake River Kobe beef burger with onion rings, all washed down with wine selections by the glass or a specialty cocktail such as the Hemingway (local Charbay Ruby Red vodka plus fresh lime and grapefruit juices). 
    For a special occasion, consider the Chef’s Tasting Menu paired with wine. Having indulged, I cannot recommend it highly enough. But therein lies the only contradiction at Martini House: Is it really just for special occasions, or is it a spot where you are likely to meet a regular––a local winemaker in jeans and rubber boots? The answer is yes. It is an experience not to be hurried, but to be enjoyed in all its facets at many levels.

Martini House, 1245 Spring St., St. Helena (707) 963-2233; martinihouse.com. Open for lunch Friday-Sunday, 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m.; 5:30-9:45 p.m. for dinner every night during the winter. Reservations are suggested. Dinner appetizers: $9-22; entrees: $32-42. The Cellar is open 4:30-9:45 p.m. during the week and 11:30 a.m. through dinner (the special Cellar menu begins at 3 p.m.) Friday-Sunday.

Do you like what you read? Subscribe to Solano Magazine »